http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...y Tools-_-205105&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=205105&gclid=CLPUqJvY47YCFUVyQgod5w4AyA
A "genuine Saab product" in this instance is a misnomer. A good quality valve spring compressor will be perfectly good. Don't forget a small magnet to collect the keeper keys as they are released.

 

And don't forget a little sticky grease to help hold the keepers in place as you release the compressor.

 

I have actually purchased the tool , in a brand which I once considered quality ..(stanley ) not these days . The tool is very similar to the link ( thanks CRW ) .

The split face end ( valve stem ) cannot contact the Spings due to the lifter recess , I attempted using sockets to bridge that gap , but could not get any movement in the actuating arm , and the whole set up seemed very hit n miss , hence thinking that there must be an alternate design available ..

Jim , you may or may not recall this is a head we discussed a year or so back , where the head shop Ground valves , I have a set of second valves to replace those and was planning to wire wheel those , fit and hand lap .

I can see on the valves ground , reassembly grease on the collets .

 

There is a specific Saab tool that attaches to the head between the valves using the existing holes for the cam shaft bearings. I can post a picture when I get home.

I used a magnetic pickup tool to briefly magnetize the collets when I re-assembled the head on my 92. Worked fairly well, but I'm sure grease would have been a far better choice.

 

I'm no help at all.
I always used the tool supplied by SAAB on the heads, why should I buy my own? When I opened my shop, I got a closing dealership's tool set (good connections). The spring compressor has a particularly deep and narrow 'throat.'

 

Thanks for input Guys ,

I had another go with the generic , using a spark plug socket to bridge the gap ( create the deep throat that Jim references ) .
I didn't pursue to far as its a disaster waiting to happen ,, The angles are wanting to skew the socket .
I would imagine procuring the Saab tool would be near impossible and prohibitive from a $ perspective .. Might look at what I could fabricate ... so any detail pictures would be great ...

 

Aussie, I borrowed a buddy's homemade valve spring compressor, which was made with a large C-clamp, a deep socket (probably like a 19-22mm socket) somehow attached to one side (if I remember correctly, he drilled a hole through that end of the clamp and tapped it, then threaded a bolt through the socket to keep it there), and some type of rubber material on the pivoting end to prevent surface marring. The deep socket was cut open on both sides for access to the collets. If I were to estimate the cost put into the tool, I would have to say less than $20. I've used it on my first head gasket job (replacing valve stem seals), and on my last engine rebuild (valve spring replacement), and no problems each time. I'll try to take photos of it over the weekend, and you can decide if it's for you.

li Arc

 

I have part of an original bench spring compressor. Will try to upload a picture after work. Uses the camshaft mounts and pivots on that though I currently do not have a bar of the right diameter. There is also a Lisle tool IIRC that is meant to use a hammer and has a magnetic collar inside to capture the keys.
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-3620...urce=pricegrabber&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=LIS36200&utm_campaign=pricegrabber_r1
May not fit, but if someone knows - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-16750/media/images

 

Thanks for Input Guys , if you get a chance to upload pics , would be much appreciated .

I like the sound of what Lil Arc mentions , sounds simple and easily achieved .

 

Might want to check out ebay seller ZDMAK in California

who sells a nice spring compressor for the 16 valve Saab cylinder head valve springs. I used this rebuilding B202, B204/234, and B205/B235 cylinder heads while off the engine.

 

As closure , If anyone is looking for similar ...


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281095628112?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Does the job fine , slow by comparison to an over centre clamp type arrangement , but does the job .

Thanks Lil arc to your Homemade c clamp reference ...

 

Hey Aussie, sorry I didn't get back to you on this. Might be a little late, but again, for closure, here are some photos I have:

li Arc

 

No Drama Lil Arc , what you had described gave me a very clear mental picture , and the confidence of what I was seeing on E bay is basically the tool .. In a plastic box ! ;ol;

Works fine , but I will get some PVC sleeves (tappet bore protection ) made up for the sake of being pedantic

 

Works fine , but I will get some PVC sleeves (tappet bore protection ) made up for the sake of being pedantic

I have used a very similar adapter to Li Arc but made from thick wall plastic tube (no scratches) used with a standard over-centre compressor. You can do the same with a piece of steel tube and just put some adhesive tape round it for protection.

 

Good advise... In this case tho , never used . Replacing valves that have been *cut* during a rebuild .. ( you may recall a lengthy thread on it 12 months back) .. I had stem seals fitted and some surface welding done .. and the Guru ground the valves !.
These collets still have assembly grease on them . I have a replacement set of valves that I will lap in to what is otherwise an excellent 2.1 head .

 

Get yourself a pair of long nose or needle nose pliers or tweezers. They can be useful when playing with collets. And a mechanic's magnet for when you drop them in the recess. :lol: