The connector is the OBD-II connector. As far as the cable goes, some have had luck making a hook from a coat hanger and using it to pull the spring backwards while putting the cable on the end of the pedal lever. You can readjust the cable by grasping it near the fuse block and pulling a few times toward the front of the car. If the clutch pedal operation is still, the throwout bearing might need to be lubed... Ron

 

thanks, but i just cant see anything with that shiny metal plate over the top of the peddle's axle bolt. I have no idea how the right angle hook on the clutch cable links to the pedal or how to get the old one off.

 

The pedal doesn't need to come off. Take off the knee bolster and the lower air vent if you haven't already, and you'll have a very clear view of the top of the clutch pedal.

 

The pedal does not need to come off. At the top of the pedal, the bar forms into a hook. Your cable looks different than the OEM version. The OEM cable has a plastic loop that fits over the hook at the top of the pedal. However, there is a spring that presses on the plastic loop to keep it in the hook and also serves as a return spring for the pedal. The metal hook on your cable may be able to fit into the hook as well, but I can't be sure. In any event, a coat hanger or loop of wire can be slipped over the spring to pull it away from the pedal, allowing the cable to be positioned in the pedal's hook.

John

 

thanks for the tips.

If i can get to it, it sounds like i can replace the cable without removing the peddle.

However, seeing enough of it is the problem

Thanks Jeremy for "Take off the knee bolster and the lower air vent"
Can you explain further?
I cant see anything that looks like a "knee bolster".
By the "lower air vent" do you mean the plastic cosmetic cover?
I assume Not as when i removed the cover I still had to squeeze right in underneath lots of bits n pieces.

thanks

s

 

Sorry, I had assumed you had taken off the lower plastic panel already. Once that's off, you'll see a large curved and ribbed metal piece. That's the knee bolster, and it's only held on by two 10mm bolts. When that's off, you'll see a plastic duct that runs right over the footwell. Take it off, and you'll have a great view of what you're working on.

 

Jeremy is entirely right. You will never have enough visibility or access without removing the plastic kick plate, metal knee bolster and lower vent, in that order. Once you do, things will be much clearer as to how to proceed.

When working under the dash, don't be afraid to take off some pieces so that you can see and reach what you need. Just note carefully how they came off and what bolts held them in so that you can get everything back correctly.

John

 

While you're under there......

convert the car to a hydraulic clutch and be done with it.

The silly cable was only used from 94-early 98. Saab wised up in 98-99 and returned to using a hydraulic clutch.